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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.